Check it before the MOT

Check it before the MOT

It all starts with the pre checks
I not seen them done for some time .....
all doors /boots must open and close
oil leaves checked on all diesel engines / petrol
cam belts advised as you - the car owner - are to keep the car/4x4 in tip top condition
if the engine lets go on the test its not down to the tester / the garage
always check the easy bits
ie lights are all working
wiper blades are not split
washer bottles full
tyres inflated
there’s an old saying when I worked part time in a college - yes teaching ladies DIY mechanics

P petrol/fuel
O oil
W water
E electrics
R rubber
spend some time checking the bits you should be doing at least once a month

test started as you all know there logged on the vosa comp system
some thing asked is how long is a test ?? I have asked myself many times
and vosa will not give you a time a guestimate is 30 - 45 mins

inter checks
front/rear seat belts . seat security
( ie give them all a pull and make sure all mounting bolts are in & the bolts locking an come out all they have not got fraying or any damage to the webbing

rear fog light tell tale ABS warning ( abs warning light works as it should)

indicator / hazard switches ( ie you turn then on and off and the do as they should)

view to the front / wiper and washers ( keep stickers out of the wiper sweep area it’s called zone A / zone B ie size of a 5p in zone A (in front of you the driver) size of 10p in zone b ) washers send water to the screen and the wiper move as they should ... they don’t have to go in to park

brake pedal servo operation ( there no signs of fluid leaks . the pedal rubber in there and not to badly warn . pump the brake pedal empty the servo then start the engine the pedal should drop slightly that shows the servos working)

handbrake. Steering wheel & column ( make sure the hand brake staying in the upright /on place .. ie if taps it does not click off and the button works ... steering wheel dose not move up and down or side to side )

front doors / mirrors / horn ( front doors open and close from inn side and out and latch .. mirror is one we are often asked about most cars have 3 you only need 2 out of the 3 to pass the mot .. horn easy it got to make a nose when pressed yes if it not load then the test can fail it

exterior checks

front and rear number plates ( not to be too badly damage .. readable and not going discoloured and not hanging off right size letters )

front lamps and indicators ( they all work and show the right colour light were needed and don’t go out when tapped and are fixed solid ) this is for all lights fitted ) rev lights are not part or the mot

headlights and aim ( they work and are set within limits) limits are set on the beam tester

mirrors .front and rear shock absorbers ( as above on the mirrors .. we cheek the shockers do damp when pushed down )

front and rear tyres ( there the same size on the same axle and for damage)

rear lights . rear fogs . number plate lights ( rear light all work and the right colour rear fog light works only need the n/s/r and need to work with the dipped beam on . number plate light no white light going backwards and one out the 2 working)

stop lights ( they work when the brake pedal is pressed 1 o/s1 n/s ) upper lights are not tested

fuel tank cap ( it seals all the way round)

indicators . hazards ( they work as they should including side repeaters ware fitted)

rear doors and boot lid ( they open and close an secure in the closed position)

wipe blades ( not split or damaged and are fixed to the arm)

general condition of the vehicle ( ie no sharp edges bumper end caps fixed )

under bonnet

vehicle structure ( ie rot but as with peds the inner wing could be rotten we are looking at the chassis and mounting points)

braking system ( ie for leaks and the pipes for rot .. note if brake pipes are covered or greased / covered in under seal we are not allowed to remove it to test it ) grease all your pipes

exhaust system ( ie its not blowing and mounting are there)

steering & suspension ( nothing look damaged and rubber boots / cloves look in good condition

power steering ( the no leaks of excessive nose)

under vehicle inspection

steering inc power steering ( looking for ware and movement leaks damage poor or bad repairs)

drives shafts (if applicable) we only test front shafts / cv boots for leaks ( rear ones are not tested)

front suspension shock absorbers ( cheek for play side to side .ie 9 and 3 o clock then 12 and 6 o clock) shocks for leaks and to fail it must be dripping out not just damp )

front and rear wheel bearing ( ie play . nosey and roughness)

wheels and tyres ( damage cuts bent rims size on each axle you only need 3 quarters or the tread showing the 1.6 mm the outer or inner edge can be smooth but not showing any cord)

service brake ( ie the handbrake cables and operating leavers)

mechanical brake components ( pads must have more than 1.5 mm on pipes for corrosion grease them up leaks)

fuel tank & fuel system ( no leaks all pipes fixed to the floor all filters fixed )

rear suspension inc shocks ( ware play in joints rot bushes worn shocks for leaks)

structure general vehicle condition ( rot wheel arched sharp edges )

brakes are tested in the brake rollers you can have one hand brake not working and it still pass
if you take you ped in in 4 wd you must tell them as they will use a deceleromater ...

as rot if found it all depends where it is and on the tester as for where its listed at as prescribed areas are different on most vehicles